2 tablespoons quality olive oil

½ pounds uncooked shrimp shells

¼ cup chopped shallots (2 med. shallots)

1 cup chopped onion (1 med. onion)

1 cup chopped celery, plus leaves (2 ribs)

¾ cup chopped carrots (2 med. carrots)

1/3 cup flour

3 tablespoons brandy

¼ cup dry white wine

8 cups fish stock or chicken stock

3 ounces tomato puree

1 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoon butter

½ pound raw shrimp meat (from above)

1 cup light cream (or heavy cream for a richer bisque)

In a large skillet heat the olive oil to smoking and drop in the shells. Stir frequently until shells are a bright pink, about 5 minutes. Do not cover during searing.

Add the shallots, onions, celery, and carrots; cover and sweat over medium heat until the vegetables are translucent and somewhat tender, about 8 minutes.

Sprinkle flour over the mixture and stir to blend well. Cook uncovered for 2 or 3 minutes.

Splash 2 tablespoons of brandy over the mixture and flambé. When the flames have died, add white wine and reduce. This will take about 3 additional minutes.

Pour the stock into a medium (3 quart) saucepan and add the contents of the skillet. Scrape the skillet clean. Add the sachet and the tomato puree, which is for color.

Bring to a gentle boil, partially cover, reduce heat and simmer for 1 hour. During the cooking, taste for seasoning, especially salt.

When the bisque is cooked, the extraction begins. Remove the sachet and discard.

Pour all the contents of the saucepan through a chinois or sieve into a clean saucepan. Push as much of the mass through as possible with a wooden spoon.

Ladle shells and vegetables into the work bowl of a food processor and puree.

Moisten a generous length of cheesecloth, spread it on the counter and empty the contents of the work bowl onto its center. Fold the cloth over the puree, leaving enough length to grip on either end. Twist the cloth to extract every bit of liquid from the shells, over the saucepan. When you can twist out no more of the essence, discard the cloth and dry shell residue.

While it isn’t absolutely necessary, I often pour the bisque through a sieve with a smaller mesh a second to produce a perfectly smooth texture. Set the saucepan of bisque aside.

Heat the butter in a skillet and sauté the raw shrimp over medium heat until they turn pink, about 3 minutes. Flambé with the remaining tablespoon of brandy. Remove from heat and chop into ¼-inch pieces. Add the meat to the bisque.

Pour in the cream and over low heat, bring back to steaming hot, but not quite to a simmer (about 175º F).

Ladle the bisque into a heated tureen and bring to table. Serve in heated soup bowls garnished with snippets of chives.